Here at Marostica Hyundai we get many questions about many aspects servicing and maintaining your New or Used Vehicle. We are attempting to shed some light on the mysteries of vehicle maintenance and service. If you have any other questions, or want to clarification on any topic please feel free to contact us and ask for more information.
Why is My Check Engine Light On?
Your check engine light came on, now what? These tips can help you determine whether your vehicle has major engine problems or just a loose gas cap.
We’ve all been there before. You’re driving along when you notice a yellow light out of the corner of your eye. A quick glance at the dash confirms your fear. It’s the check engine light. If you’re like most car owners, you’re not sure if you should continue to panic or not, and you have little idea what that light is trying to tell you or how you should react.
The often misunderstood check engine light or “service engine soon” message can mean many different things. It could be a misfiring engine, a broken oxygen sensor or simply a loose gas cap.
When you see the check engine light it doesn’t necessarily mean you need to pull the car over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. It does mean you should get the car checked out as soon as possible. If you ignore the warning, you could end up causing further damage. It could also be a sign that you’re getting poor gas mileage and emitting high levels of pollutants.
In any case, if the check engine light is on in your car, it’s time to schedule a service appointment. At our service centre, we have factory-trained technicians who can easily check and diagnose what’s behind your check engine light message, at a cost that is nearly always lower than a private garage.
What to do when your check engine light comes on…
- While it’s true that extreme problems like low oil pressure or an overheating engine will trigger your check engine light to come on, your dashboard has other lights and gauges to warn you of serious problems, and probably soon.
- A good rule of thumb is to always read your owner’s manual and learn about the different reasons that would trigger the check engine light to come on. It should also give you a tour of the other gauge and warning indicators on your dashboard.
- If your check engine light is on, the first thing to do is look for a serious problem that requires immediate attention. Check your dashboard gauges and lights for indications of low oil pressure or overheating. These conditions mean you should pull over and shut off the engine as soon as you can find a safe place to do so. On some cars, a yellow “check engine” means investigate the problem, while a red “check engine” means stop right now.
- Next, try tightening your gas cap. This often solves the problem. Keep in mind that it may take several trips before the light resets. Some vehicles have a separate indicator that warns of a loose gas cap before the condition sets off the “check engine” light.
- Reduce your speed and, if possible, the weight you’re carrying. If the “check engine” light is blinking or you notice any serious performance problems, such as a loss of power, reduce your speed and try to reduce the load on the engine. For example, it would be a good idea to stop towing a trailer. Have the car checked as soon as possible to prevent expensive damage.
- Even if you don’t notice an extreme problem, you should definitely still have the check engine code read and the problem fixed. If you want to diagnose the malfunction yourself, you can buy a scan tool at most auto parts stores. Prices range from about $40 to several hundred, depending on the model and the features. These tools will give you instructions on how to decipher the engine codes. If you don’t have to mechanical skills already to diagnose and fix the problem, it’s a more cost-effective decision to go directly to a service centre.
If you’re check engine light is on and you’re in need of a diagnosis, Contact our Service Department for a fast and cost efficient solution.
Gasoline prices continue to rise and fall and rise some more. There are many ways that new or used car owners can improve overall fuel economy by as much as 20 percent.
The first thing that affects fuel economy is how you drive the car…
- Plan your trips – Try to accomplish multiple things in 1 trip. You can also try to car pool or walk to your destination. This won’t decrease fuel consumption but will help you drive less, which means less gas.
- Do Not Speed – If you are on the highway driving 100kph instead of 110kph will save you 1-2 kilometers per liter over the duration of your trip. Try using your cruise control it reduces fuel consumption by maintaining a constant speed.
- Throttle Less – Accelerate and brake with ease. You will save on fuel as well as wear and tear on your brakes.
- Don’t warm up – Thanks to new technology most modern cars only really need 30 seconds to get warm.
- Windows up – Having the windows down on the highway can decrease fuel economy by up to 10 percent.
The other major thing that affects fuel economy is the maintenance of your car…
- Oil – Use only manufacturer’s specified motor oil, and change it per factory recommendations, can improve fuel economy as well.
- Weight – The less weight in your vehicle the better fuel economy. An extra 45 kilograms increases fuel consumption by 1 to 2 percent.
- Tires – Make sure your tires are set to the recommended pressure at all times this can increases fuel economy by as much as 3.3 percent.
- Filters – A clean air filter and fuel filter will allow the air and fuel to flow unencumbered and can help you save up to 10 percent on fuel costs.
- Sensors – The oxygen sensors, engine emissions system and evaporative emissions control systems if damaged can all decrease fuel mileage by 20 percent or more.
- Gas – The owner’s manual will list the correct octane gasoline you should use for your car. Purchase recommended grade of fuel, premium-grade fuel won’t improve economy in cars designed for regular.
If you take care of your car it will take care of you. Is it time to schedule your vehicle for regular maintenance? Would you like your vehicle checked prior to making that weekend trip? If so, then please feel free to contact our service department. Our certified technicians will be happy to help.
One thing to keep in mind is that rough idling is not the problem – it is a symptom to an engine issue that has yet to be diagnosed. Your engine could be idling roughly due to a number of different reasons.
One reason for a rough idle is it could be time to clean out the fuel injectors or it could be time to change out the spark plugs.
Other reasons for the rough idling include:
- Exhaust problems.
- Holes in the air intake valve.
- A general loss of power in the car.
- It may also occur in the winter months when cars have a more difficult time starting and may shake when the engine is turned over.
In order to prevent this problem from happening, you want to regularly schedule tune-ups for your vehicle. During a tune-up the mechanic reviews a number of areas within the engine to make sure that everything is working properly.
If your vehicle has already begun to experience this issue it is recommended that you run a diagnostic check to pin point the exact cause of the rough idle. It is recommended that you bring your car to a trusted mechanic to review and diagnosis the problem. You can also go to an auto parts store and use a code reading device that they have available and proceed from there with repairs. A rough idle should be addressed right away; as the longer this symptom occurs the more damage could be done to your vehicle, which will ultimately be more expensive to repair.
Of course you can always bring your car to our service centre and our experienced technicians will be happy to assist you in diagnosing and fixing any problems.
Checking your car’s oil level is one of the most vital things that you can do to extend the life of your engine. Not only is it important, but it is a very fast and simple task to complete as well.
Follow the steps below to check your oil level…
- First, make sure that you are parked on level ground, for the most accurate reading.
- Next, safely prop your hood open and find the dipstick (which generally has a brightly colored handle, usually orange, and have the word OIL labeled on them).
- Pull the dipstick out and wipe it down with a towel or rag, and then replace it into the engine, making sure that it goes all the way in.
- Now, pull the dipstick back out- and be sure NOT to turn the stick upside down to read as the oil will run and you will not have an accurate reading. The dipstick will have two marks on the bottom (usually lines or holes in the stick), and you can read the oil level by looking to see where the oily section and dry section meet. If you find this mark between the two then you are all set!
If it is below the bottom mark that means that you need to fill the oil. When you do this, be sure to never fill it more than a liter at a time without checking the level again, as you do not want to overfill the engine.
Most manufacturers consider normal oil consumption to be 1 liter per 1,600 kilometers, if you find you are using much more than this you might want to schedule a service appointment. Our service professionals will check to see if a little preventative maintenance can save you from having any major issues down the road.
Checking the coolant level in your car is a fairly simple process. The first thing to remember is to check the coolant level when the car is cold. In most cars today, there is an opaque coolant overflow tank located next to the radiator. The opaque tank is made of white plastic, which allows you to see the inside and be sure that the coolant is at a safe level. You will also find that there are markings on the side to tell you how high or low the level is.
- You should be checking your coolant level a few times per year to make sure that there are no leaks in your system.
- If you find that you are low on coolant you will need to top it off. Engines take a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water, which allows your radiator the optimum boiling or freeze protection that your engine needs. You can generally purchase this pre-mixed.
- To add the coolant, just unscrew the cap of the opaque overflow reservoir and add the mixture until it reaches the full mark.
- After that, all you need to do is replace the cap, make sure that it is on tight, and you’re ready to roll!
- Be sure to change your coolant every couple of years (following the manufacturer’s recommendations).
Please keep in mind that most coolants are toxic, and can be fatal to those who come in contact with it.
- If you spill any on the ground you should make sure that you wipe it up.
- Do not leave the container lying around!
- Follow the recommendations on the container to dispose of it properly.
- If you find that you are consistently filling your coolant and levels continue to be low, this may mean that you have a leak. This may be a minor fix (such as replacing the radiator hose) or it could be more serious.
If you think there may be a leak in your cooling system or if you feel it is time to change your coolant, please feel free to schedule an appointment. Our service professionals will check to see if a little preventative maintenance can save you from having any major issues down the road.
Replacing your windshield wipers is a quick, relatively easy task. You can find wipers at most automotive retail stores or in our parts department. If you are unsure of what kind to use, see your owner’s manual or ask a representative at the store.
Removing the old wipers…
- To start, the old wipers must be removed. To do this, pull the entire wiper away from the windshield and it should hold itself up. (The arm is made of metal. Be sure not to scratch the glass of the windshield!)
- Use one hand to hold the arm, and the other to depress the small tab located on the underside of the wiper where it meets the metal arm.
- Slide it off by pulling from the centre toward the bottom of the arm.
- Once removed, gently place the arm against the windshield. In order to prevent any damage, make sure that it does not snap itself back.
Now it’s time to put the new wipers on…
- First, line the two pieces up to ensure that it simply clicks on.
- Look at the side of the wiper that attaches to the arm. You will see that it is flat and has a curve across the top. Rotate this clip until the curve is pointing towards the wiper blade.
- Hold the wiper upside down next to the arm where they match up and put the arm in between the sides of the wiper.
- Make sure that the open end of the curve is facing the clip, and pull the wiper upward so that the rounded edge slides into the hook. Pull it on tightly to click it into place.
Repeat the process on the other side and you’re done!
The brakes are one of the most important parts of your vehicle and they go a long way to keep you safe behind the wheel. However, it’s often hard to determine whether the noises we hear our brakes making are the result of something simple, like air in the brake line, or if they are a warning sign of imminent brake failure.
Remember, when your service technician recommends any brake repair, it should be completed as soon as possible to avoid danger. Whether you need a simple brake inspection, brake replacement, brake pad replacement or work on the brake discs, brake pads or rotors, we can help. Our technicians are trained to work on specific makes and models, and our prices are often lower than you can find at an independent garage.
For a better idea of what could be causing your brake trouble, read on for answers to common brake questions.
Why are my brakes pulsing?
- If you experience a pulsing or jerking from the brake, it is far more likely that it was caused by a defect in the brake rotor or drum than from the anti-lock system. A warped rotor or out-of-round drum can cause pronounced pulsating in the brake pedal.
- The failure of the pad to retract is not uncommon. In older drum systems, the brake shoes are pulled back from the drum by strong springs. But in a disk brake system, the pads are pulled back from the rotor (or disc) by the resiliency of rubber seals. As these seals age or are damaged by contaminated brake fluid, they can fail to do their job. The result is that the pad will ride against the rotor and wear out prematurely.
- If your rotor is warped, it can cause the pad to wear out even without a failure of the rubber seal. A warped rotor will wobble as it rotates, thereby scraping the pad as it turns. Eventually the pad wears out and the metal backing plate will damage the metal rotor.
Why is the brake pedal sinking to the floor?
- If your brakes are not as responsive as they should be or if the pedal “sinks” toward the floor, this could be an indication of a leak in the braking system. It could be an air leak (in the brake hose) or a brake fluid leak. One telltale sign of a brake fluid leak is the presence of a small puddle of fluid when the car is parked. Brake fluid looks similar to fresh motor oil, but with a less “slimy” texture.
- Another possible problem is the master cylinder. The master cylinder’s cup seals or the cylinder bore itself may be worn. Internal leaking or bypassing cup seals must be considered any time vehicles brake pedal is fading to the floor. This fading pedal with no external leak found is a common master cylinder symptom caused by these cup seals. The result will be a loss of hydraulic pressure. The vehicle will creep at stop lights as the brake pedal fades toward the floorboard.
Why are my brakes grinding?
- This loud metallic sound means that you have worn down the pads completely. The grinding or growling noise is caused by the two pieces of metal (the disc and the caliper) rubbing together. This can “score” or scratch your rotors, creating an uneven surface. If this happens, do not be surprised if your mechanic tells you that the brakes and rotors need to be “turned” (a process that evens out the rotor surface), or even replaced.
Why are my brakes vibrating?
- A vibration or pulsating brake pedal is often a symptom of warped rotors (but can also indicate that your vehicle is out of alignment). The vibration can feel similar to the feedback in the brake pedal during a panic stop in a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes.
- It is a sign of warped rotors if the vibration occurs during braking situations when the anti-lock brakes are not engaged. Warped rotors are caused by severe braking for long periods, such as when driving down a steep mountain or when towing. Tremendous amounts of friction are created under these conditions, heating up the rotors and causing them to warp. The vibration is felt because the brake pads are not able to grab the surface evenly. If you drive in these conditions, make sure to stop periodically to allow your brakes to cool off.
How much does a brake job cost?
· The cost of repairing your brakes depends largely on what is wrong with your brakes, and which garage you choose to have them repaired at. There are often costs associated with the initial inspection of your brakes, repairing the damaged brake system, and replacing brake parts. If your entire brake system needs to be replaced, this is commonly a more expensive procedure. It is a common myth that a dealership service department is more expensive than a private garage. However, at our service centre we offer affordable and professional service performed by factory trained technicians. Contact us today to get started on your brake repair.
· For many owners, brake repair and a brake change is something that is often overlooked. But keeping your brakes properly calibrated and in good working order can prevent costly repairs down the line, and, more importantly, help you avoid a collision.
Changing your vehicle’s oil at the recommended intervals is the best thing you can do to ensure it has a long life. As simple as this task may sound, many people are confused about exactly how often their car’s oil needs to be changed.
While you can always change your oil on your own, at our dealership we offer fast oil change service at a fair price, allowing you to go about your day without breaking your wallet.
How Often To Change Your Oil…
- In the past, it was standard for oil changes to occur every 5,000 kilometers, or three months, whichever came first. Now, that standard does not always apply. Oil quality has improved over the years, and the automotive industry has begun to take driver’s travel and driving habits into account when making recommendations. As such, how often you change your oil should depend on you personal driving habits.
- If you use the car only for short trips on city streets, particularly in cold weather, you probably should have the oil changed every three months. Why? On short trip, the engine doesn’t reach its proper operating temperature, which can cause condensation of water inside the crankcase and oil can be diluted by gasoline.
- If you mostly use your car for occasional longer trips, it is acceptable to wait six months or more to change the oil.
- One thing you should absolutely consider when deciding when your oil needs to be changed is your car warranty. Many manufacturers specifically require warranty holder to change the oil based on time. If this is the case for you, it is worth it to change the oil according to the guidelines until the warranty expires. If your engine needs a warranty-covered repair in the future, your manufacturer might decline to cover it if you didn’t follow their recommended timeline for oil changes. To avoid a headache, follow their recommendations.
- Another reason why the manufacturer’s recommendations are worth considering is that the automaker has done extensive testing on your vehicle’s engine to define the recommendation. Their recommendations are based on lab and real-world driving to determine how it performs under many conditions. Through that testing, they have developed a set of guidelines for maintenance and the frequency of oil changes.
Checking the transmission fluid in your car is a relatively simple procedure and should be done about once per month. To get the most accurate reading you should check the transmission with the engine running and properly warmed up, on a level service.
- First, remove the dipstick from under the hood (if you are unsure as to where it is located, check your owner’s manual).
- The handle is usually a bright color (generally yellow or red).
- Remove the stick, wipe it clean, replace, and then remove it again.
- There are labels for “Warm” and “Cold”- check the warm readings.
- If it is not full, slowly fill the fluid up a little at a time, and continue to measure with the dipstick.
- To fill the fluid you should use a funnel and pour it into the hole where you pulled the dipstick. After filling, replace the dipstick, and after a few moments remove to confirm that it has been done correctly.
When checking your transmission fluid, be sure to check its colour. Transmission fluid is a pinkish/red color. If your fluid is brown that is a sign that there may be something wrong with the car. If this is the case, schedule an appointment, where our experienced technicians are more than happy to help!
No car batteries last forever. Things to take note of: are your headlights dimming, how old is your battery, has your car needed a jump-start; then maybe it’s time for a new battery. You should bring your car to an experienced and trusted mechanic like the ones found in our service department, but if you have to do it yourself here are some rules. Changing a battery is a quick and easy job in most cars and vans and can be done with minimal tools.
The most important thing before you begin is to make sure the battery needs to be replaced…
- Look for build-up in the form of a whitish or blue residue around the terminal – removing this can sometimes solve issues. Note: do not touch this powder it can often contain dried sulfuric acid, which will corrode your skin.
- Verify that the battery has been given the chance to recharge by driving constantly for 30 minutes (with minimal electrical usage, including not running the air conditioner).
- Check the alternator. Some cars also have a battery meter, with the engine running, the alternator usually maintains a charge close to 13.8-14.2 volts in a properly functioning charging system. The battery should have 12.4-12.8 volts with the engine off, and with no accessory load.
After all of this, should you actually need a new battery, be sure to buy the correct replacement battery. When you purchase a battery from any authorized retailer like our parts department, you will have to pay a “core” charge. In most instances, when you bring in your old battery at the time of purchase, you will not get charged this fee. Although, some retailers will refund you the core charge if you bring in your receipt within a specified amount of time.
Before Removing the Battery:
- Set up a secure working environment. Park on a flat, level surface at a safe distance from traffic sparks or open flames. Put on the parking brake. Put on gloves and safety goggles.
- Remove the cigarette lighter and plug the memory keeper into socket. If you don’t have a memory keeper make sure you have all the PINs for your electronic equipment before you start. You may wish to check your car manual to see what devices may be affected.
Remove the Old Battery and Install the New One:
- Locate the battery – The battery should be located in an accessible part on either side of the car’s frame. The battery is a rectangular box with two cables attached to it. In some European cars the battery is under the matting in the trunk, or inside the fender of the wheel well.
- Identify battery terminals – Locate the positive and the negative terminals. The positive terminal will have a plus sign and the negative terminal will have a minus sign.
- Disconnect the negative terminal – Loosen the negative clamp with a wrench and slide it off of the terminal. It is important that you disconnect the negative terminal socket before the positive terminal socket. Otherwise, you may short circuit the positive terminal to a grounded part of the car.
- Disconnect the positive terminal.
- Remove the car battery and put in the new battery.
- Reconnect the positive and negative terminal.
- Tighten the clamps using a wrench.
- Close the hood – Shut the hood of your car firmly and start your car.
- Check that all the electronic devices are working properly.
Remember to properly dispose of the old battery.
If you are uncomfortable replacing the battery yourself or you are experiencing any other issue with your vehicle, please contact our service department for a fast and cost efficient solution.
A warranty is a statement made by either the seller or the manufacturer of a product or service promising that it will perform in a specified manner for a specific period of time. When shopping for a vehicle you often hear the term “powertrain warranty”. A powertrain warranty is generally a promise to repair or fix an issue with the parts of the powertrain should a malfunction arise based on the agreement signed by the buyer.
The powertrain of a car consists of multiple components…
- Any of the internal workings of the engine
Simply put, the powertrain provides power to the car…
- Power is created by the engine and then transmitted to the driveshaft through the transmission.
- The sensors that are generally included in a powertrain warranty provide input and output to and from the powertrain control module (PCM).
- Some sensors send the computer information, which transcribes the information and sends it to output sensors.
They all work together to make the car run cleanly, smoothly and efficiently. The powertrain warranty is often used as a marketing tool. If a mechanical problem arises within the powertrain and it is covered under the terms of the warranty, either the manufacturer or dealership will have to pay for the repairs to the powertrain. What is covered under the warranty, however, varies greatly between vehicles, manufactures and dealerships. When looking to purchase a vehicle you should review this carefully and be sure to understand all of the terms and conditions within the warranty.
If you believe you may be having powertrain problems please contact our service centre and we will be happy to check on your warranty status and get your issues fixed so that you can drive safely and worry free.
Sooner or later, it happens to the best of us, we get a flat tire. Most of us have a roadside assistance membership of some kind but it is always good to know how to do this.
Follow these simple steps to fix the problem and be on your way in no time…
- Find a safe spot to pull over. If you’re on the highway, getting off is the safest bet, even if you have to drive on a blown tire. Otherwise, pull as far onto the shoulder as possible.
- Don’t park in the middle of a curve, where approaching cars can’t see you.
- Choose a flat spot, jacking up your car on a hill can be a disaster.
- If you have a manual transmission, leave your car in gear.
- Be sure to set your parking brake!
- Turn on your hazard lights.
- Get the jack, wrench, and spare tire from the trunk of the car and bring them over to the tire that is flat. Use other tools or supplies if needed.
Loosen the Lug Nuts:
- Use the wrench to loosen the lug nuts.
- You may need to remove the hubcap. Don’t remove the lug nuts at this point; simply loosen them by turning the wrench to the left (counter-clockwise).
- If the lug nuts are really tight, try placing the wrench on the nut and standing on the wrench arm to use your full weight on it.
- You can also try hitting the wrench arm with a rock.
Jack Up the Car and Remove the Lug Nuts:
- Use the jack to lift the vehicle off the ground.
- Different car models may have different places to put the jack; consult your owner’s manual for specific locations.
- Once the jack is securely in the correct spot, jack up the car until the tire is off the ground and can spin freely.
- Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off the car.
- Make sure to place the lug nuts in a place where they won’t get scattered, and pull the tire straight toward yourself to remove it from the wheelbase.
Attach the Spare Tire:
- Place the spare on the car.
- Line up the lug nut posts with the holes in the spare, and push the spare all the way onto the wheelbase until it can’t go any farther.
- Put on the lug nuts.
- Don’t put them on tightly, just make sure they’re on enough for the spare to stay on the car for a moment.
- Lower the car back to the ground.
- Use the jack to bring the car back down to ground level.
- Remove the jack from underneath the car.
On the Ground:
- Make sure the lug nuts are tightened.
- With the car back on the ground, you can now tighten the lug nuts.
- Rather than tightening them one by one in order, start with one lug nut, tighten it about 50%, move to the opposite nut (across the circle) and tighten that one about the same amount.
- Keep tightening opposite lug nuts gradually in turn until each lug nut is as tight as it can be.
- Put your flat tire and tools back in your trunk.
- Make sure you don’t leave anything on the side of the road.
If you are lucky a tire isn’t completely destroyed when it goes flat. If the flat is caused by a nail or other sharp object, and you can’t or don’t want to change your tire you may be able to give yourself a few kilometers of leeway by using a flat-fix type spray. Simply follow the manufacturer’s directions. In ideal situations, the spray foam will allow you to at least find a close off-ramp and pull into a service station or a rest stop before you have to change your tire.
If your tires appear worn or you have had a flat tire and need it fixed or replaced, contact our service department for a fast and cost efficient solution.
There are several reasons that may explain why your air conditioning system is blowing warm instead of cool air.
- The first possibility is that there is a refrigerant leak. The leak may be found in the evaporator, condenser or hose in which case you should bring your car to a mechanic to be repaired.
- Another reason that your air conditioner may not be blowing cool air is because the compressor has gone bad. The compressor pressurizes the refrigerant and pumps it throughout the AC’s necessary components. Because everything revolves around the compressor, if it is faulty then the air conditioning will not work correctly. Usually there will be a loud noise when you attempt to turn on your air conditioner if the compressor is broken.
- Finally, another problem that may be occurring with your air conditioning system is that there is a clogged orifice tube. This is located between the condenser in the front of the radiator, and the evaporator in the passenger compartment. If there is an obstruction in the tube then it will stop the refrigerant from reaching the evaporator, causing your system to blow warm air.
Whatever the reason that your air conditioner is not working we are more than happy to assist you! Bring your car to our service centre today and our experienced technicians will assist you in diagnosing and fixing any problem.
Octane gas is available in several different grades, with each number representing the resistance to burn the fuel has; the higher the rating, the slower the burn. The most common form of octane gas is 87octane. Generally speaking, octane gas increases the cost of fuel, and the higher the grade you purchase the more money you will spend.
You can determine what type is needed for your vehicle by…
- Looking at the owners manual.
- Checking the manufacturer’s website. Most find higher-level octane gas to be desirable because they feel that it keeps their car engines running smoother and because they feel it is a cleaner fuel. The truth though is that although it may be cleaner, most engines will notice minimal difference with the higher gas grade.
If you have questions or concerns about your vehicle, please contact our service department to get answers and fast, cost efficient solutions.
An extended warranty is like an insurance policy on your car, it is a safeguard against unforeseen repairs. An extended warranty may be purchased at the time you buy your vehicle; it’s also possible to purchase one later. If you’re the type who likes to be prepared for all possibilities, an extended auto warranty may be just what you’re looking for. With the ever-increasing cost of vehicle repairs, these can make a lot of sense.
In deciding whether an extended warranty is right for you, and in selecting the best plan, you’ll need to consider some things…
- To what extent is the car already under warranty and do you plan to keep the car past this period.
- How reliable is the vehicle make and model? Do your research.
- Is the extended warranty from the factory, the dealer or a third party provider? While these aftermarket warranties are cheaper they can be known for shady or dishonest practices.
- There are differences in deductible – you can pay per visit or per repair. Be sure you understand the difference before you buy.
- Some extended warranties are transferable should you decide to sell the car before the end of the warranty. Find out the details.
- What exactly is covered? Does it cover breakdown as well as wear and tear? Under a “breakdown” warranty, coverage is extended only to parts that break. Additionally, some “entry level” contracts don’t cover ABS brakes, so if your vehicle has this feature, you should consider upgrading to this level. And overheating – regardless of its cause – isn’t covered in many warranties. Thus, if overheating occurred due to problems with an expensive part such as your radiator, you’d be stuck with a hefty repair bill. Before committing to a warranty, take the time to fully explore the ins and outs of its coverage implications. The distinctions between the various plans might seem slight, but they can prove quite important.
We may be able to provide you with an extended warranty that meets all of your needs. Please contact us and one of our friendly sales representatives will be happy to answer all of your questions.
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Service & Parts
Service & Parts
Monday - Friday
8:00am - 5:00pm
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